Background
When I first started my journey into brandy about a year and a half ago, I picked out some decently old expressions of cognac and armagnac. Sadly, I finished the armagnac (a lovely ’98 Del Cassou) before giving myself the chance to review it, but I still have a bit of the cognac left.
The Fillioux estate has been producing cognac in the Grande Champagne region since 1880. Its fifth generation owner, Christophe Fillioux, took over leadership from his father Pascal in 2015. This bottle comes from a single cask labelled “Cask No. 88,” which suggests that it was distilled in 1988. It was bottled in February of 2021 at 43%.
Tasting
On the nose, I get Lady Grey tea, coriander, dried orange peel, black pepper, tobacco, and fresh grain. It’s very pleasant but a little hushed.
The palate is rich and sweet. It wouldn’t surprise me if there is some dosage here, especially considering this comment from Christophe Fillioux on Pleb Yak’s blog, which states that Fillioux’s default dosage is 2%. I taste sweet grapes, orange and peach marmalade, cola, Cheerwine, and black pepper. The oak influence is delicate and draws little attention to itself – exactly what I would hope for in an old yak.
Verdict
This is tasty, easygoing, and relatively affordable for a cognac this old. It may be a little too easygoing for my preference, but even after sitting mostly empty for too long on my shelf, it’s still rich and full of flavor. Were something like this available at a higher proof with no (confirmed) dosage, it could be dangerously good. (7/10)